How to Assemble and Finish a Crochet Bag

The crocheting is finished, and what sits on the table is a set of panels, a strap or two and a fringe of yarn tails. The next hour decides whether they become a bag that looks handmade in the good sense or one that looks unfinished.

Finishing has an order that saves rework: block, seam, attach straps, weave in ends, edge the opening, then shape.

Block the panels first

Blocking means dampening the pieces, pinning them to their intended measurements and letting them dry. For a bag made of separate panels it matters more than for almost any other project, because two edges that are supposed to be joined have to be the same length.

• Cotton and cotton blends: soak the panel in cool water, press the water out in a towel without wringing, pin it square on a blocking mat or folded towel and leave it until completely dry.
• Acrylic: pin the dry panel to size and hover a steam iron a little above it. Never press the iron onto acrylic; it flattens the stitches permanently.
• Bags worked in one piece in the round: skip this step and shape the finished bag at the end.

Measure matching panels against each other while they are pinned. Corners should be square and opposite sides equal.

Choosing a seam

Four seams cover nearly every crochet bag. They differ in how visible they are, how bulky, and how much they give.

Seam	Worked with	Look	Best for
Whip stitch	Yarn needle	Small slanted stitches, fairly flat	Motifs and squares, quick side seams
Mattress stitch	Yarn needle	Nearly invisible from the right side, flat	Side seams on panels worked in rows
Slip-stitch seam	Hook	A low ridge on the side facing the hook	Firm, low-stretch seams on the inside
Single-crochet seam	Hook	A raised, rope-like ridge	Strong seams shown on the outside as a feature

Whip stitch

Hold the panels with right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Bring the needle through both edges from back to front, carry the yarn over the top and repeat in the next pair of stitches. Going under both loops of each stitch gives the strongest seam; going under only the two inner loops leaves a neat outline around each piece, which suits the granny square bag.

Mattress stitch

Lay the panels side by side with right sides facing up. Pick up one strand at the edge of one panel, then the matching strand on the other, working back and forth like a ladder. Every inch or so, pull the yarn gently and the edges draw together with the seam yarn hidden inside. It is the flattest seam and the best choice where the join should disappear.

Slip-stitch seam

Hold the panels with right sides together, insert the hook through both edges, yarn over and pull through everything on the hook. Repeat in each pair of stitches. The seam is firm and has almost no stretch, which is useful on a bag but also makes it easy to pull tight; if the seam puckers, go up a hook size.

Single-crochet seam

Work as for the slip-stitch seam, but complete a single crochet (sc) through both layers each time. Worked with wrong sides together in a contrast color, the ridge becomes an outline on the outside of the bag. It is the bulkiest seam, so keep it off places that will be folded.

On edges made of stitch tops, join stitch to stitch. On row edges, as on the folded rectangle of the first crochet bag, join row to row.

Sewing on straps securely

Pin both strap ends in place and lift the bag by the strap before sewing anything, to check that the strap is not twisted, that both ends sit the same distance from the side seams, and that the length is right.

1. Overlap each strap end onto the inside of the bag by 1 to 1.5 in (2.5 to 4 cm).
2. With a yarn needle, sew around all four sides of the overlap, taking each stitch through the full thickness of both layers.
3. Sew an X from corner to corner inside that rectangle.
4. Run the tail back through the stitching before cutting it.

A strap stitched along a single line will tear away from that line. The rectangle spreads the pull over several rows. Making the strap itself resist stretching is covered in the guide to crochet bag straps.

Weaving in ends that stay put

Bags are pulled, stuffed and washed, and cotton is smooth, so a tail run straight through a few stitches soon works its way out.

• Leave tails of at least 6 in (15 cm) whenever yarn is cut or joined.
• Weave each tail in three directions: about 2 in (5 cm) one way through the backs of the stitches, back the other way along a different path, then a short third pass. The changes of direction are what lock it.
• Split the plies of the stitches with the needle on at least one pass, so the tail is gripped by the yarn itself.
• Trim with the fabric slightly stretched, leaving a tiny stub on the inside so the end can settle without popping through to the front.
• Do not rely on a knot alone. Knots in cotton work loose and leave a hard lump.

In mesh there is no solid fabric to hide in, so run tails down through the posts of the stitches or into the solid base and top band.

Edging the opening

One finishing round makes the top edge even and hides the uneven ends of rows. Join the yarn at a side seam and work sc around: one sc in the top of each stitch, and along row edges about one sc per single crochet row. If the edge flares, there are too many stitches; if it pulls in, too few. Adjust and redo it, since this is the most visible round of the bag.

For an edge that will not stretch, follow with a round of slip stitches.

Final steam and shape

Stuff the finished bag with rolled towels until it has the shape it should keep. Steam it lightly from a short distance, or mist it with water, then smooth the seams with your fingers, square the base and straighten the top edge. Leave it stuffed until it is fully dry.

If the bag is going to have a fabric lining, it goes in now, measured from the finished and shaped bag. The guide on lining a crochet bag picks up from here.